Strap in kids cause this is a long one! When we last visited L’Enclume in April earlier last year we spoke to several people about the differences in the food there between spring or summer and the winter months. As a little Christmas treat my partner and I decided we should take the lengthy drive up to Cartmel and see for ourselves!
What followed was what can only be described as a personal gastronomic peak – the finest meal I have yet had. I am aware that this is entirely subjective and these are heavy words. There was a roundness or a completeness of seasoning that is rare even at this level. Not just salt, but acidity, hints of sweetness added in just the right place – the difference often between the excellent and the sublime. This should be expected at this level but it was astounding to find it in every single dish without fail. This perhaps felt particularly noticeable in this winter menu where vinegars and preserves added even more complexity. As you might expect it was also noticeably richer than the springtime iteration of the menu which really suited my personal preferences. I dearly love the tender vegetables of spring and summer but alas, my heart belongs to butter and cheese! It should also be noted that the implement and vessel choices throughout this meal were truly brilliant; forcing the dish to be explored a certain way, enhancing texture or regulating pace.
A last note on what this ‘means’ (if indeed anything at all!). My partner and I have been fortunate enough to eat at a number of very good restaurants this year including Clare Smith’s Core in October – a restaurant often mooted as the best in the UK. It was a good meal and they are deserving of all of the praise they receive. Having eaten at both within a timespan allowing comparison, however, it’s hard to ignore the feeling that L’Enclume is not just better – but by some distance. It feels as if this is a restaurant at the height of its powers and in many respects leading rather than following. Everyone will have their own feelings on this of course but I think presently it would be hard to overlook L’Enclume as the best restaurant in the UK – a view La Liste and Harden’s Guide have recently both agreed with!
1 Comment
Strap in kids cause this is a long one! When we last visited L’Enclume in April earlier last year we spoke to several people about the differences in the food there between spring or summer and the winter months. As a little Christmas treat my partner and I decided we should take the lengthy drive up to Cartmel and see for ourselves!
What followed was what can only be described as a personal gastronomic peak – the finest meal I have yet had. I am aware that this is entirely subjective and these are heavy words. There was a roundness or a completeness of seasoning that is rare even at this level. Not just salt, but acidity, hints of sweetness added in just the right place – the difference often between the excellent and the sublime. This should be expected at this level but it was astounding to find it in every single dish without fail. This perhaps felt particularly noticeable in this winter menu where vinegars and preserves added even more complexity. As you might expect it was also noticeably richer than the springtime iteration of the menu which really suited my personal preferences. I dearly love the tender vegetables of spring and summer but alas, my heart belongs to butter and cheese! It should also be noted that the implement and vessel choices throughout this meal were truly brilliant; forcing the dish to be explored a certain way, enhancing texture or regulating pace.
A last note on what this ‘means’ (if indeed anything at all!). My partner and I have been fortunate enough to eat at a number of very good restaurants this year including Clare Smith’s Core in October – a restaurant often mooted as the best in the UK. It was a good meal and they are deserving of all of the praise they receive. Having eaten at both within a timespan allowing comparison, however, it’s hard to ignore the feeling that L’Enclume is not just better – but by some distance. It feels as if this is a restaurant at the height of its powers and in many respects leading rather than following. Everyone will have their own feelings on this of course but I think presently it would be hard to overlook L’Enclume as the best restaurant in the UK – a view La Liste and Harden’s Guide have recently both agreed with!