Per se, NYC *, 4/27/24

1: The blue doors
2: Salmon cornet amuse
3: Oysters and pearls – the iconic oyster sabayon with caviar
4: Artichaut a la barigoule with burnt Meyer lemon vinaigrette
5: Foie gras pastrami with roasted beets and Pinot sorrel
6: Trout tatami with Persian cucumber and hearts of palm
7: Mane lobster etoufee with polenta and Swiss chard
8: Poussin (young chicken) with crispy ris de veau and wild ramps
9: Elysian Fields farm lamb saddle with sweet carrot gnocchi
10: Miyazaki A5 Wagyu with morels and sauce bordelaise
10a: Gougere with Comte and black winter truffle (forgot to take a picture of this one but incredible)
11: Yorkshire foraged rhubarb with Greek yogurt panna cotta
12: Mint chocolate chip, cappuccino semifredo, doughnut holes
13: Chocolate truffles

I know I will probably invite controversy in this sub by posting a negative review of Atomix and then an extremely positive one of Per se, but here we are. I haven’t been here in nearly a decade and went several times in the early 2010s when it was at the height of the NYC dining pyramid – and I adored it then. Seeing the reviews here and elsewhere that were decidedly mediocre if not negative gave me pause, but I wanted to go back since it had been so long.

Perhaps I went on a particularly good weekend night, or maybe (I hope) the rumors of its death are greatly exaggerated. Whatever the case may be, I walked into a restaurant that seemed to absolutely be firing on all cylinders.

Starting with the food – the salmon amuse and oysters and pearls of course are the long-time classics that, when eating, felt like a warm welcome back to the TKRG. They were the same (read: perfect) as I remember at TFL and Per se visits past. Plating for the artichoke salad was a little underwhelming but it was made up for by a delicious Meyer lemon vinaigrette. I was in a big group so a couple people were able to get the foie pastrami which was also excellent. If there was a weak dish on the menu it was the trout tataki. Technically good but maybe a touch one-dimensional with not enough citrus in the ravigote. Butter poached Maine lobster with polenta was another riff on a Keller classic and delicious. The meat courses continued to be delicious, although the A5 wagyu was the standout with morels and a sauce bordelaise that was one of the most intense flavors I can remember in a while. Totally worth the supplement. Desserts were as good as always including the chocolate truffle box at the end.

The service was flawless (as it should be in a restaurant of this caliber). Beyond flawless, it was warm, attentive without being overbearing, and with everyone there seemingly happy to be there and give the guests a great experience. Our somm was wonderful, taking me away from my usual burgundy and champagne habits and helping match more offbeat wines to the food including a Chardonnay from the Jura, Mosel Riesling (ok not that offbeat, but I basically drink 0 Riesling at baseline so offbeat for me) and a Lillian Gold Series Syrah from Maggie Harrison. These were really some great value wines on the list and I never felt like I was being upsold. Finally, the pacing of the meal was perfect. It can be hard to make a 4+ hours, 10+ course tasting menu dinner not drag on at some point, but they timed the courses perfectly and kept us excited for the whole meal.

Again, I realize Per se has become deeply uncool in the world of NYC fine dining. Is it new, experimental, or does it really stretch the definition of fine dining in some new and unique direction? No. But there are nights when I want to slip into an ultra-comfortable banquette, watch night descend on Central Park, drink utterly delicious benchmark wines, and eat food in the finest tradition of Franco-American luxury. For that, I would be hard pressed to find a better place than Per se.