So I'm from New York, been to every multi-Michelin restaurant in the city, and I've been told by more than one person that a 3* there is on par with a 2* in Europe. I always brushed it off, but 12 hours into my first trip to Europe I'm beginning to see what they were talking about.
The whole menu was a perfect blend of French technique, Danish flavor, and seasonal freshness. Standouts included:
Oyster and horseradish amuse: Not sure why it came in an egg but it tasted like the best possible version of a tinned oyster in horseradish sauce.
"The best of the goose": It was just whipped foie gras. Can't go wrong.
Scallop, caviar, champagne: also had little diced potatoes in it. Perfectly acidic sauce, and every element just seemed to further the caviar.
Turbot 'Wellington': seeing a tiktok of a version of this done with pheasant was what made me add this restaurant to my itinerary. It didn't disappoint. I can't even begin to imagine the technique that went into this, and it still never felt overworked. Every element went together perfectly.
Lobster bisque: Grew up catching and eating lobster off the coast of Montauk so it's easy to unlock a core memory with this. It didn't disappoint. Mushroom gyoza alongside it and the most powerfully-lobster aroma I have ever smelled.
Coconut Gelato with Caviar and Green Olive Oil: It worked. Amazingly well.
The green mousse in the tart, bottom left of the penultimate photo. Some kind of mushroom dessert, I'm not sure what it was, but damn was it good.
Missteps:
Asparagus, veloute, lime-soy: I see what they were going for with the butter of the veloute against the acid of the ponzu. I don't think it worked.
Roebuck, asparagus, morels: everything was delicious but there were only a handful of tiny slivers of venison. Most of the plate was the vegetables and it didn't feel like a great way to end things.
Strawberry Flambe with Vanilla Ice Cream: Strawberries were underripe.
Still an absolutely incredible meal. 2 stars well-deserved.
by Marx0r