Aponiente
3***
El Puerto de Santa Maria, Spain
21/6/24
This might have been the most unique restaurant experience I have ever had.
Located in the small city of El Puerto de Santa Maria in southern Spain in an unassuming building on the coast of the Atlantic, we find tonight's restaurant, 3 Michelin starred Aponiente, which is also placed on number 72 on the world's 50 best list.
The name, translated to English means “to the west”, and is a restaurant unlike any other I have previously been to.
Here, in a unique old tide mill dating back to the 1800´s, Chef Angel Leon serves a menu entirely based on the sea – from appetizers to desserts.
When asked what he had been had he not become a chef, he answered without hesitation: a marine biologist.
The sea and sustainability are at the core of Chef Leons philosophy and are felt throughout the entire meal. While from a purely gastronomic and flavor perspective Aponiente might not have been the best restaurant I have visited, from a pure experience I believe it is in the same league as the likes of Alchemist and noma.
I do not say this lightly, the experience was extraordinary and unlike anything I have previously tried. The philosophy of the Chef Angel Leon shines throughout the whole experience:
From first entering the “ship”, where we are greeted by our captain dressed in a sailors Uniform, to the honking of the horn as we are about to embark on a culinary journey, it seems Chef Angel Leon has thought of every detail.
The menu is served in 3 chapters, Salty snacks, salty sea and sweet sea.
We are first sat in a lounge to receive our salty snacks, which come in the form of fish skin, 2 variations of oysters and a shrimp fritter – a perfect start to the evening.
Following the first bites, we are led into the spectacular dining room for chapter 2 and 3. Each guest is given a hand painted “book” showcasing each of the servings in an artistic manner, while being able to follow what is being served.
For Chapter 2, the salty sea we are served everything from Squid embryos to bluefin tuna tendons and the most amazing cuttlefish belly “bacon” – one of the best bites I have ever had.
Not all courses are to my palate, but all courses show immense skill and dedication to the sea.
Coming to the last chapter, sweet sea, we are served various desserts based entirely on the sea such as bonito flakes and chocolate mousse, sea weed soaked in cola and an oyster aged in Sherry from the region. Unfortunately, these were not tasty in any way.
Coming full circle, we are served a replica edition of iconic French author Jules Vernes “20.000 leagues under the sea” with an edible mini book named “julio Verne” with the Aponiente logo.
The final chapter of Aponiente is complete, and Chef/author Angel Leon ends our gastronomic journey with a master stroke.
Reflecting on the experience, it is clear why Chef Leon is known as the “Chef of the Sea”, and I am overwhelmed by the sheer amount of thought put into everything. While some of the courses were not to my taste, and I must admit sea desserts do not work for me – I appreciate the dedication to the concept.
Aponiente is unlike anything I have tried before, and to anyone interested in Fine dining and seafood an absolute must visit, which to me is the perfect example of michelin 3*** rating: “Exceptional cuisine worth a special journey”.
Price menu €315 p.p.
The Danish Connoisseur
by KanyeHefner