Schwa is important. To me, at least.
In 2016 my wife and I finally gathered together a few bucks and managed to get ourselves reservations at Schwa (pre-tock days, iykyk). It was our first experience at a Michelin Starred restaurant and it changed our connection to the Chicago food scene that is difficult to describe. Discovering Schwa and what it (I think) means to Chicago was like when I discovered Fugazi and what it meant to post-80s rock music. Maybe. Idk. That's kind of pretentious. I don't stand by that statement. Maybe. Let's get coffee and talk about it sometime.
Anyways…as I mentioned elsewhere on this subreddit, one of the fun things that's happened since that night in 2016 has been the relationships we've built and the experiences we've had following the various chefs and protégés of Schwa. In August we got to visit four restaurants that all have a connection to Schwa. It was fun as hell. We're tired and full. Let's get into it.
Flour Power (Chef Wilson, former CDC, Schwa) – Honestly, I don't need to really get into this place on this subreddit except to echo the same sentiment that's been written a million times: Flour Power fucking rules. The pasta rules. The meatball and polenta rules. The Tiramichoux (pictured) REALLY rules. BYOB rules. The hours do not rule. If I was a better writer and a smarter person I'd maybe try and draw some connection between the wild hours at Flour Power to the old reservation system at Schwa, but I'm not and I'm not. I really can't imagine too many better date nights than grabbing a bottle of something natural and light red at All Together Now and then going down Chicago Ave. and smashing delicious food at Flour Power. Order as much of the menu as you can stomach. You won't regret it.
Cariño (Chef Norm, former CDC, Schwa) – If you listened to the Joiner's podcast, you know the connection between Norm and Wilson. Wilson was CDC and Norm was a cook at Schwa. One day Wilson showed Norm the last prep of one of the dishes, handed him the keys, and left Schwa…forever. Hilarious. Perfect. Listen to that podcast because Norm's story is great. But let me gush about Cariño for a second: I love it. It's going to be the tasting menu I suggest to friends, family and strangers for the foreseeable future. This past week we got to try the Chef's Counter tasting menu and it's as close to perfect as any food I've had at this level. The menu starts off bright, spicy, and rich seamlessly flowing from "chips and salsa" through a michelada inspired oyster, chicharron dipped in esquites, and finishing with perfect ora king aguachile. After these first courses you will feel a little heat, and probably even a little full, but this incredible introduction is quickly, and remarkably outdone by a dish that not only is one of the best things we've ever eaten, but also resets the pallet: a corn and huitlacoche ravioli (a dish we saw in it's very early stages at Schwa circa 2018). The dinner continues to impress all the way through dessert which features flavors from chamoy to hoja santa. The vibes are also immaculate: the entire counter and experience felt like a dinner party amongst friends aided by wine pairings that feature, exclusively, wines from Central and South America. Cariño is killing it right now. Get a reservation now.
Schwa (Chef Caleb, former cook, Schwa) – There's nowhere else I would have wanted to celebrate my 40th birthday. Luckily for me, I got to revisit Schwa to celebrate whatever it is that's ahead in my old age. Since 2016 we've been to Schwa roughly 2x a year (Yes, even both take home menus during Covid). We missed 2023 due to personal circumstances and were due for a return luckily, our return dinner did not disappoint. The current CDC worked with both Norm and Wilson. Throwing in some New Orleans flavors on the current menu at Schwa is exciting and different, and risky. It's what I love about Schwa – sometimes you'll get a dish, like Quail Confit that's inspired by a State Fair style Caramel Apple, think "that doesn't make sense," and then you'll take a bite and all of your skepticisms melt away. Maybe strawberries DO go with Fish? Maybe parmesan ice cream in a Choco taco is the way it should have always been? Maybe Game of Thrones ended perfectly. It all melts away. Plus, it's BYOB. That's always a plus. The current crew and menu seem really dialed in and we had a fantastic time. Can't wait to go back. December? Probably.
Maman Zari (Chef Juan, former cook, Schwa, Brass Heart, Cariño) – Maman Zari has been getting some love on this subreddit. It's well deserved. There's a lot to be excited about this restaurant that is seemingly just starting to make waves. First, obviously, is that it's the only Persian tasting menu in Chicago right now. But also, their recent hire of Chef Juan, who brings a lot of excitement and experience to this formidable restaurant. I obviously have no idea what I'm talking about, but, my best guess is that their hiring of Chef Juan indicates some sort of commitment to elevating their already delicious tasting menu. The space itself is lovely and the service was on point. We drank a lovely Armenian Rose as the courses were brought to us. The flavors were bright and herbal and the sauce work was outstanding. Standout dishes included the smoked eggplant, Mahi, the Lamb chop and the stuffed squash blossom. At $90 pp for the tasting menus and a very accessible wine list, it's easy to recommend Maman Zari. This place is going to be one we should all be keeping an eye on, as the ceiling has been raised. IMO.
August was an incredible month for us food wise and we're grateful to have been able to experience these restaurants. All of these can be traced back to that night in 2016 when we first dined at Schwa. I think that's cool. It'll be fun seeing where this thing goes.
by wine-n-dive