MaiBECK (*) Köln (Cologne), Germany ~ Definitely Worth a Visit (if you keep expectations correct)
MaiBECK (*) Köln (Cologne), Germany ~ Definitely Worth a Visit (if you keep expectations correct)
by DashiellHammett
1 Comment
DashiellHammett
I have not yet figured out how to do a photo slide-show and have a text-box. It seems like you get one or the other on Reddit. But perhaps I’ve just not figured it out. In any case, here are my additional thoughts on MaiBECK.
If you go to Michelin-star restaurants for “theater” and to be treated like royalty, this restaurant may not be for you. The service is well-intended, and competent in a friendly way, but, overall, it didn’t seem like there was a service-plan. Everyone just kind of pitched in with everything, except for the person on sommelier-duty, who also served food too. I loved that you could have a 4-course meal here with wine-pairings. The wines chosen were excellent. The presentation well-meaning, but kind of clumsy. Despite there being only 4 courses (and NO amuse bouche or after dessert-course treat), the meal still took 2 and a half hours, not really counting the long wait for the check. The restaurant is obviously very popular with locals, who seem to get a little more love.
The food is the reason to come here. Truly great cooking, with the freshest of fresh ingredients. The pumpkin dish that started things off was truly representative of the purity that the chefs aim for here. Some might think the dish under-seasoned. The lack of salt was noticeable. But the ingredients were so immensely fresh and flavorful, it was like you were discovering what winter squashes (Germans use “pumpkin” to mean not just what we call pumpkins) taste like for the first time. Mustard seeds and mustard aioli were the complements here. The artic char was poached and similarly simple. And who knew lightly steamed gem lettuce could be such a revelation.
The lasagna was not the prettiest thing I ever ate, but damn was it tasty. If someone told you they were making cabbage lasagna you would probably think them had fallen on hard times. But it was just so good. The venison was equally good, but been there done that. And I loved the dessert, but already sort of forgotten the flavors.
All in all, I am very happy I tried this place. Had they been able to pull off the entire meal with better pacing, at two hours max, I’d have been much happier. My guess is that there is no brigade in that kitchen and that the chefs make each dish themselves. That is to be deeply admired. For me, I love my one-star restaurants because they don’t focus as much on the theater, and I like that. But for those who want a bit more “pomp and circumstance” with their meal. this restaurant is likely to be a bit of a disappointment. But the food really is quite good. And the price is pretty okay too. So, I’d definitely recommend, but as I said in the title to my post, you need to keep expectations on service and ambience in check.
1 Comment
I have not yet figured out how to do a photo slide-show and have a text-box. It seems like you get one or the other on Reddit. But perhaps I’ve just not figured it out. In any case, here are my additional thoughts on MaiBECK.
If you go to Michelin-star restaurants for “theater” and to be treated like royalty, this restaurant may not be for you. The service is well-intended, and competent in a friendly way, but, overall, it didn’t seem like there was a service-plan. Everyone just kind of pitched in with everything, except for the person on sommelier-duty, who also served food too. I loved that you could have a 4-course meal here with wine-pairings. The wines chosen were excellent. The presentation well-meaning, but kind of clumsy. Despite there being only 4 courses (and NO amuse bouche or after dessert-course treat), the meal still took 2 and a half hours, not really counting the long wait for the check. The restaurant is obviously very popular with locals, who seem to get a little more love.
The food is the reason to come here. Truly great cooking, with the freshest of fresh ingredients. The pumpkin dish that started things off was truly representative of the purity that the chefs aim for here. Some might think the dish under-seasoned. The lack of salt was noticeable. But the ingredients were so immensely fresh and flavorful, it was like you were discovering what winter squashes (Germans use “pumpkin” to mean not just what we call pumpkins) taste like for the first time. Mustard seeds and mustard aioli were the complements here. The artic char was poached and similarly simple. And who knew lightly steamed gem lettuce could be such a revelation.
The lasagna was not the prettiest thing I ever ate, but damn was it tasty. If someone told you they were making cabbage lasagna you would probably think them had fallen on hard times. But it was just so good. The venison was equally good, but been there done that. And I loved the dessert, but already sort of forgotten the flavors.
All in all, I am very happy I tried this place. Had they been able to pull off the entire meal with better pacing, at two hours max, I’d have been much happier. My guess is that there is no brigade in that kitchen and that the chefs make each dish themselves. That is to be deeply admired. For me, I love my one-star restaurants because they don’t focus as much on the theater, and I like that. But for those who want a bit more “pomp and circumstance” with their meal. this restaurant is likely to be a bit of a disappointment. But the food really is quite good. And the price is pretty okay too. So, I’d definitely recommend, but as I said in the title to my post, you need to keep expectations on service and ambience in check.