My Review of L’Enclume, visited April 2023
1 and 2) Beetroot – alright, nothing too special although the tart case was so thin it broke in my hand as I picked it up.
2) Pig and eel – World class, beautiful umami and strong flavours that paired well with the strong lovage emulsion and sweercorn
3) Berkswell pudding – I absolutely loved this as well, although I think it needed more stout vinegar to cut through the richness of the cheese
4) Mackarel – My favourite of the day. Perfection. Umami from mackarel garum and super fresh, light and herbal sauce using marigold.
5) Mushrooms – sauce was fantastic although mushrooms cooked this way were subtle
5) Bread and butter – ok
6) Absolutely loved the presentation and how they fried artichoke leaves. Artichokes cooked perfectly as well although I think again this dish could have benefited from a vinegar or something acidic as the cheese is quite rich.
7) Bone marrow custard – An umami bomb although this caviar was way too salty
8) Cod with mylor prawns – Cooked sous vide and for me was really nice, I dont see how people have problem with sous vide fish. Lovely shellfish sauce
9) Smoked cod broth was excellent but I dont know why they are following the cod dish which was quite soft with a dish from raw squid which also has a soft texture
10 and 11) Beef – fantastic course using multiple cuts of the beef, love the beef fat crumb and using the tendons. Beef was of excellent quality
12) Cheese and malt crumb – quite liked this course even though waiter said it can be controversial
13) Rhubarb – forgetable dish
14) Caramel anvil was quite nice but I dont understand the garnish of apples which were barely cooked and the apple juice poured by the side. Don’t see how it goes together and how this is a signature dessert
Service from the assistant manager, Tom was excellent. All the staff here are working extremely hard, both in the kitchen and FOH. They have a small service kitchen even though its located in the middle of nowhere but the food here is definitely better than any of the 3 stars in London. Some of my comments may seem quite critical, but I try to be honest. Not always a fan of michelin star desserts as they always seem to be trying too hard to look clever rather than trying to give pleasure.
by need20goodmen