Monk (Kyoto) review

My meal at Monk felt like an example of seasonality expressed wrongly; largely underseasoned, austere and overall sort of bland.

Whilst it’s not unique in its farm to table approach, my understanding is that they use what they are literally able to buy on the day itself and then adapting dishes to the produce of the day – admirable for the freestyle approach you would need but in theory, also heavily dependent on the produce.

Maybe it’s the awkard season we were in – Winter transitioning into Spring where neither the Winter nor Spring produce was at peak (climate change IS real) but it felt like the seasoning and cooking did not adapt to the produce.

I’m not talking about the use of the pizza oven by the way, most of the textures were good be it a properly cooked carrot to the Jerusalem Artichoke (although the cabbage in the vegetable platter could have been softer). It was literally a lack of fat and salt, which again, is probably not needed if the produce was at its peak but it felt like they didn’t adapt to help coax out the produce.

And the pizza? It was good… but I’m not sure I would say exceptional. There’s a distinct chewy almost gummy quality to the dough which can be an acquired taste. The toppings were fine, with the little white fish (like baby sardines?) and brushed with soy being the most unique. Ultimately I’m not sure what the fuss is about.

This was the most disappointing meal I had in my 11 day Japan trip, 100% because of the hype around it. I’d imagine it’s better in peak Spring or Summer, so perhaps plan accordingly for that.

by piracer