Sven Enderle Pinot Noir 2022

by Vagimas

2 Comments

  1. Vagimas

    Coming at you with a real treat today, and one which needs some context. Some of you might recognize Enderle from the famed Enderle & Moll, the well-known winemaking duo based out of Baden who have received significant attention for their signature delicate style of Pinot. For those who like a style with a bit less extraction and lower alcohol, the wines are a true highlight within the German scene.

    However, Sven (Enderle) phased out of the winery due to some differences of opinion between him and Florian (Moll) which I don’t want to air out entirely here. I had some nice conversations with Sven in the years after the split, and he seemed pretty shaken by the experience and struggling to figure out how best to proceed with his career. In early 2022 he shared that he had sorted out some vineyards to start working with again and that he was excited for his first harvest – I was super intrigued waiting to see what would result from the entire situation, his meteoric rise with Enderle & Moll, the subsequent falling out, and his brave efforts to pick up the pieces and continue onwards in the industry here in Germany (which is really a smaaaall industry, so I get that one can get psyched out at the thought of not being accepted).

    I’m thrilled to finally be tasting this now – he hasn’t lost his stride at all. For those who are familiar with the Enderle & Moll portfolio, this wine will be instantaneously recognizable.

    The color is medium ruby and has no sediment, and it really shows that classic light extraction for which Sven is known. The nose embodies a beautifully recognizable Pinot with ample fruit, showing notes of raspberry, tart cherry, cranberry, blueberry, sloe, sumac, forest floor, and sandalwood. It is both incredibly expressive and pleasurable but also containing a sort of secretive depth and nuance (for me, classic E&M) which evolves well over a few hours.

    On the palate, the wine is medium bodied with refreshingly tart acidity, moderate alcohol and soft, delicate tannins – again, the frame here feels super dainty considering how much it has to offer aromatically. Aromas from the nose carry over to the palate quite nicely and are complimented by a bit more savory depth: mint, white pepper, and more of the woody sumac character from the nose. Of course crunchy red fruits abound here as well and provide an energetic feel. The finish drifts in a gentle direction and is honestly a bit underwhelming considering how promising the wine is otherwise, but the genesis of the wine and its admittedly youthful state brings it all into an acceptable context (for me, at least). I’ll be grabbing a couple more bottles of this to stow away for aging, my bet is they’ll be incredible by 2028 or so.

  2. tinybenny

    The Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir was my first favorite wine. I have two 2018s in my fridge. This is very cool to read, thank you for the context. Does Enderle & Moll still produce under that name for recent and upcoming vintages?

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