Sagrantino grapes of Cantina Fratelli Pardi, Montefalco
©pierpaolometelli
Of all the long-lived Italian red wines that typically display their finest qualities at least 12-15 years after the harvest, none is as underappreciated as as little known as Montefalco Sagrantino. Perhaps this has to with its nature, as wines made from the Sagrantino grape are characterized by their robust tannins. Or perhaps it’s the fact that the wines come from Umbria, a region that rarely receives the attention it deserves. No matter the reason, the best producers in Montefalco have been crafting a greater number of excellent wines over the past ten to fifteen years, and media and consumers are starting to take notice.
The town of Montefalco is located in central Umbria, south of the town of Assisi and north of Spoleto. Along with Montefalco Sagrantino – made exclusively from the Sagrantino grape – other reds include Montefalco Rosso (and Montefalco Rosso riserva), that are primarily Sangiovese. White wines from this territory include Montefalco Grechetto and Trebbino Spoletino.
Briefly, Sagrantino is one of the three most tannic varieties in Italy, along with Nebbiolo – famed for its use in Barolo and Barbaresco – and Aglianico, most famous as the principal variety in Taurasi, Campania’s most noble red wine. Yet, while those wines have been recognized for their greatness for several decades, there has been little press regarding the special qualities of Montefalco Sagrantino, and the reasons have been simple; too few producers until the last 15-20 years have crafted elegant wines from the Sagrantino variety.
Thankfully, that has been changing, thanks to vineyard management, according to Filippo Antonelli, one of the premier producers of this wine. Antonelli points out that there was a movement in the 1980s and ‘90s when more and more producers decided to plant Sagrantino on better sites, where the grapes would ripen more evenly, while still maintaining proper acidity, an important factor when you have highly tannic wines.
As for Montefalco Rosso, a lighter-bodied wine compared to Montefalco Sagrantino, the primary varietal is not Sagrantino, but rather Sangiovese. Why was this decision made? In the words of Antinonelli, “they took a snapshot of the vineyards,” meaning that as Sangiovese was the most widely planted grape in the area, a Montefalco Rosso would be defined by this grape, with the result being a less tannic, less powerful wine that would be more approachable upon release. This decision was a wise one, especially for the producers who could offer a more drinkable red sooner, at less expensive pricing. Notable recent examples of how good Montefalco Rosso and Montefalco Rosso Riserva (basically a Montefalco Rosso from better quality grapes that has been aged longer before release)have included the 2021 Pardi Rosso, the 2021 Pardi Rosso Riserva and the 2020 Antonelli Rosso Riserva.
Alberto Pardi (left) unloading Sagrantino grapes at his winery, in Montefalco
©pierpaolometelli
There is another red from Montefalco that deserves your attention, and that is Montefalco Sagrantino Passito. Produced entirely from Sagrantino, this is a lightly sweet wine made when the grapes are left to dry on mats; this process concentrates the grapes, resulting in a richly flavored off-dry or slightly sweet wine that is known in Italy as a vino da meditazione, one that can be served with certain dessert offerings (chocolate would be an ideal pairing, as would a blackberry or raspberry tart); or if you prefer, enjoy a small serving of it on its own. Interestingly, this was the original red wine from Montefalco, one that has been made for centuries, as the dry Montefalco Sagrantino has only been produced for a few decades.
Filippo Antonelli in his cellar in Montefalco
Bruno Bruchi Fotografo Siena
Finally there are some notable whites produced in Montefalco, with the best being Grechetto and Trebbiano Spoletino. The former is a delightful wine, typically made without any oak, and offers pleasing aromas of orange blossom, pear and yellow flowers; medium-bodied, this is a wine that has lovely freshness and acidity, and can be enjoyed with lighter pastas and white meats.
Trebbiano Spoletino on the other hand, tends to be richer on the palate with the structure to age for anywhere from five to ten years. One of the best producers of Trebbiano Spoletino is Filippo Antonelli, who makes two versions: Trebium, which is fermented in large oak barrels, and Vigna Tonda, sourced from his oldest Trebbiano vines and aged in amphora. Medium-full on the palate, this displays outstanding complexity and is one of the most distinctive of all Italian white wines.
Notes on current releases from Montefalco:
Bocale
Trebbiano Spoleto 2023 (Trebbiano Spoletino DOC) – 100% Trebbiano Spoletino; macerated on the skins for 12-18 hours, aged in steel tanks. Bright, medium deep yellow; lovely aromas of lemon peel, melon, jasmine and magnolia. Medium-bodied with very good ripeness and acidity; along with good persistence and a clean finish. Overall, the wine is very well balanced and very refreshing. Enjoy over the next 2-4 years. (91)
Montefalco Sagrantino 2019 – Rich aromas of black plum, black currant, clove and lavender. Medium-full with excellent ripeness – the fruit explodes on the palate – there is very good acidity along with outstanding varietal purity and complexity. The wood notes are beautifully restrained and remain in the backround. As you would expect, there are substantial tannins, yet they are not bitter. Best with time; peak in 12-18 years. (94)
Antonelli (Montefalco)
Trebbiano Spoletino “Trebium” 2023 – Aromas of straw, melon, pear jelly and a subtle hint of green mint. Medium-bodied with very good ripeness and concentration. There is good acidity, very good typicity and a round, satisfinyg finish with good persistence. Enjoy with most white meats over the next 3-5 years. (91)
Trebbiano Spoleto “Vigna Tonda” 2022 – Spontaneous fermentation with a lengthy maceration on the skins. Bright golden yellow; aromas of marzipan, honey, apricot and pear. Meduim-full, this is a highly distinctive wine with excellent texture, very good ripeness and lovely notes of yellow spice and almond. Beautiful now; this should drink well for another 6-8 years. (94)
Montefalco Rosso Riserva 2020 – 80% Sangiovese, 20% other local red varietals; matured in large barrels for 18 months. Bright, medium deep ruby red; aromas of morel cherry, red licorice, geranium and hints of tar and dried rose petals. Medium-bodied, there is excellent harmony and notable typicity, while the wood notes are restrained and the tannins aare beautifully round and elegant. Quite appealing now, enjoy over the next 4-6 years. (92)
Montefalco Sagrantino Molino dell’Attone 2018 – A single vineyard Montefalco Sagrantino from an east facing plot that was planted in 1990. Bright, medium deep ruby red; aromas of black cherry, currant, dried rose petals and cardamom. Full-bodied, this is deeply extracted; the mid-palate is rich, and there is impressive persistence, while there is good acidity and restrained wood notes. This is tightly structured and displays subtle black spice notes in the finish. Give time; peak in 15-18 years. (93)
Montefalco Sagrantino Passito 2020 – Bright, medium deep purple; aromas of black raspberry, clove, purple iris and strawberry preserves. Medium-full; with bright berry furuit notes, good acidity, moderate tannins and delicate sweetness; enjoy over the next 4-8 years. (92)
Cantina Fratelli Pardi
Montefalco Rosso 2021 – A blend of Sangiovese (75%), Merlot and Cabernet (15%) and other approved red varieties (15%). Bright, medium deep garnet; aromas of red cherry, red plum, red poppy and a hint of Himalayan salt. Meduim-bodied, this is beautifully balanced and has excellent appeal with very good freshness, soft tannins and good acidity. This is a classy example of Montefalco Rosso that is a very good value; enjoy over the next 3-4 years. (88)
Montefalco Rosso Riserva 2021 – A blend of Sangiovese (70%), with the other 30% being typical or indigenous varieties; matured in French and Slavonian 26-hectoliter botti for 18 months. Bright, medium deep garnet; aromas of menthol, black cherry and a hint of junper. Medium-full with a rich mid-palate, impressive ripeness, and very good persistence. The tannins are medium-full and need to settle down a bit, as the finish is a bit sharp. Best in another year or two; peak in 6-8 years. (90)
Montefalco Sagrantino 2019 – Matured in French and Slavonian 26-hectoliter botti for 18 months, followed by from 9-12 months in stainless steel. Bright, medium deep ruby red; aromas of black plum, roasted coffee, walnut and lead pencil. Medium-full with impressive concentration, good acidity, well-integrated oak and medium-full to fill-bodied tannins that are a bit harsh, yet not bitter. This clearly needs time to settle down before it is drinkable, but it does offer impressive typicity and varietal chaacter. Try in 3-4 years, with peak in 10-15 years. (91)
Montefalco Sagrantino “Sacrantino” 2019 – A single vineyard Montefalco Sagrantino; matured in 26 hl Austrian botti. Bright, medium deep ruby red; aromas of raspberry, black mint, black peony and a hint of clove. Medium-full with excellent ripeness, very good acidity, very well integrated wood notes and significant persistence. Offering beautiful complexity and outstanding typicity, here is a Montefalco Sagrantino that is one of the most harmonious I have tasted in several years – a wonderful accomplishment. Approchable now, but even better in a few years, with peak in 10-15 years. (95)